Martin Margiela, the invisible legend of the fashion world, graduated from Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts like the Antwerp Six. Before establishing his own label, he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier between 1985 and 1987. During the spring/summer 1989 Paris fashion week, he made a successful debut and turned the fashion scene upside-down with his eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Margiela chose for his label a blank piece of white fabric, which symbolizes the strength of fragility and the fragility of the passage of time.
Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1990
As we look back on his 1989 Fall/Winter show, we find ourselves still wonder at his redesigns like vests made from broken crockery, boots with separated toes and sweaters created from army socks. Redesigning and recycling was a trend during early 1990s, Margiela, Xuly Bet and other underground labels used recycling techniques as a means of expressing their avant-garde vision of fashion and how clothes could be worn.
fragments of broken porcelaine creating a waistcoast F/W 1989
the famous Tabi boots
The label Maison Martin Margiela is best known for its deconstruction concept design. Deconstructive fashion rests more on excellent cutting, creative layering and texture development than on showy jacquard or funky paillette. Margiela focused on “Skin and Bones”, he dismantled, fractured, or fragmented, then reconfigured, not only clothes but the traditional logic behind them. What he brought us are not merely clothes, but a completely new aesthetic view and fashion attitude.
cape made of vintage ‘fedora’ style men’s hats F/W 2004
It is interesting that most of Margiela’s models are either non-good-looking or fat. He even renders his models unrecognizable by covering their faces with cotton gauze since the house intends to focus attention on the clothes. Margiela has left the business in 2008, yet he’s still highly influential in fashion industry.
unrecognizable models on Margiela shows
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